Troubleshooting - 12v Seaflo Pump setup up - common problems and solutions

Renay Erickson
Renay Erickson
  • Updated

 

In most cases problems can be resolved without having to submit a warranty claim.

Australian Manufacturer Marine RV for advice on Phone(07) 3265 7755

If after following these steps you believe you have a warranty problem please reply to this email with the Serial Number on the side of pump so we can lodge a warranty claim on your behalf.

Please note we can not lodge a warranty claim without the serial number.

Video:

This link will take you to a video that covers the most common issues:

 

https://www.msamako.com.au/troubleshooting

 

Alternately, the steps below may also assist.

 

STEP 1.

Please check your installation of the pump. Incorrect installation - such as incorrect placement of the filter is the most common cause of problems with these pumps.

 

Installation of a 50 mesh strainer such as the SEAFLO 51S01 series is recommended to prevent foreign debris from entering the pump. SEAFLO hex/swivel barb fittings provide easy removal if maintenance or access is required.

 

The fittings are designed with a "taper-seal", creating a water-tight connection when hand-tightened. Always secure barb tubing connections with properly sized stainless steel clamps to prevent leaks.

 

Never use Teflon tape or sealing compounds on threads. Sealer may enter the pumps causing a failure. Failure due to foreign debris is not covered under warranty.

 

STEP 2.

Troubleshooting:

 

Vibration induced by sea conditions or transporting can cause plumbing or pump hardware to loosen. Check for system components that are loose. Many symptoms can be resolved by simply tightening the hardware. Check the following items along with other particulars of your system.

 

The pump will not start:

Is the motor hot? The thermal breaker may have triggered: it will reset when cool. Electrical connections, fuse or breaker, main switch, and ground connection. Is voltage present at the switch? Charging System for the correct voltage(+_10%)and good ground. For an open or grounded circuit, motor, or improperly sized wire. For seized or locked diaphragm assembly (water frozen?)

 

Pump will NOT prime/splutter:

( No discharge/Motor runs) Is the strainer clogged with debris? Is there water in the tank, or has air collected in the hot water heater? Is the inlet tubing/plumbing sucking in air at plumbing connections (vacuum leak)? Is inlet/outlet plumbing severely restricted or kinked? Proper voltage with the pump operating (+_10%) For debris in pump inlet/outlet valves or swollen/dry valves. Pump housing for cracks or loose drive assembly screws.

 

LEAKS FROM PUMP HEAD OR SWITCH:

 

For loose screws at the switch or pump head. Switch diaphragm ruptured or pinched. For punctured diaphragm if water is present in the drive assembly.

 

THE PUMP WILL NOT SHUT OFF /RUN WHEN FAUCET IS CLOSED:

Output side (pressure)plumbing for leaks, and inspect for leaky valves or toilets. For air trapped in the outlet side (water heater) or pump head. For correct voltage to pump(+_10%) For loose drive assembly or pump head screws. Are the valves or internal check valve held open by debris or is rubber swollen? Pressure switch operation/adjustment incorrect, refer to shut-off adjustment for the switch.

 

NOISY OR ROUGH OPERATION:

For plumbing which may have vibrated loose. Is the pump plumbed with rigid pipe causing noise to transmit? Does the mounting surface multiply noise (flexible)? For mounting feet that are loose or are compressed too tight For loose pump head to motor screws. (3 long screws) The motor with the pump head was removed. Is the noise from the motor or pump head?

 

RAPID CYCLING:

Pressure switch shut-off adjustment Water filter/purifier should be on a separate feed line. For restrictive plumbing, flow restrictors in faucets/shower heads

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